Bouldering grades explained: the V-scale and Font

The V-scale

The V-scale was created by John Sherman at Hueco Tanks, Texas, in the early 1990s. The V comes from his nickname, “Vermin”. Grades start at V0 (some gyms use VB, for “basic”, below that) and currently go up to V17. Each step is a whole grade. Some gyms add a plus or minus, or use ranges like V3–4.

Font (Fontainebleau)

Font grades come from the forest of Fontainebleau near Paris, one of the oldest and best-known bouldering areas in the world. They use a number, a letter and an optional plus: 6A, 6A+, 6B, 6B+ and so on, up to 9A. Font is written in capitals to tell it apart from French sport grades, which look the same in lowercase but mean something different.

How V and Font line up

Font has more steps in the middle of the scale, so one V grade often covers two Font grades:

Every grade side by side: V-scale to Font and Font to V-scale. Or look up a single grade, like what grade is V3? or what is 7A?

What the grades mean

There’s no official definition, but roughly:

• V0 to V2 (Font 4 to 5C): beginner to early intermediate. Big holds and clear moves; where most people start.
• V3 to V5 (Font 6A to 6C+): harder problems with smaller holds and moves that need technique and finger strength.
• V6 to V9 (Font 7A to 7C): advanced to expert. Usually takes years of regular climbing.
• V10 and up (Font 7C+ and up): the elite end of the sport.
• V17 / 9A: the hardest grade climbed so far. The first was Burden of Dreams in Finland, climbed by Nalle Hukkataival in 2016.

Gym grades

Gyms set their own grades, often as coloured circuits or ranges instead of single grades. They’re a useful guide inside that gym, but don’t expect them to match the rock outside, or the gym down the road.