Hangboard training
Guided hangs with beeps on the last 3 seconds.
Finger training: 10 s on, 20 s off in six finger positions. Very light, feet on the floor. ~10 min.
First grip
Four fingers, half crimp or open
Set 1 of 6 · 6 hangs
Get ready
10
Hang 1/20
0:0011:55 total
Emil's sub-max
20 hangs · 11:55 · 6 finger positions
- Four fingers, half crimp or open×6 hangs
- Front 3, open×6 hangs
- Front 2, open×2 hangs
- Middle 2, open×2 hangs
- Front 2, half crimp×2 hangs
- Middle 2, half crimp×2 hangs
Pause between grips
45s
Emil Abrahamsson's daily finger routine ("Abrahangs"): frequent, very light hangs for finger tendons and recruitment. A 2024 study found it built finger strength as well as max hangs, and more when the two were combined.
- Very light: about 2/10 effort, just a small strain in the forearms.
- Feet stay on the floor. Pull with your arms to set the load.
- 18–22 mm edge.
- At least 6 hours between sessions or climbing. Up to twice a day.
Warm up first. Stop if your fingers hurt.