British to YDS grade conversion chart
Every British grade with its YDS equivalent, side by side. Where the two scales don't line up, you'll see a range.
Key conversions
- HVS 5a = 5.9
- E1 5b = 5.10b
- E2 5c = 5.10d
- E3 5c = 5.11a/b
- E4 6a = 5.11c/d
- E5 6b = 5.12b
- E6 6b = 5.12c/d
- E7 6c = 5.13b
- E9 7b = 5.14b/c
| HVS 4c | 5.8 | 4c+/ | V/ |
|---|---|---|---|
| HVS 5a | 5.9 | 5b/ | V+/ |
| E1 5a | 5.10a | 5c/ | VI/ |
| E1 5b | 5.10b | 6a+ | VII− |
| E2 5b | 5.10c | 6b | VII |
| E2 5c | 5.10d | 6b+ | VII+ |
| E3 5c | 5.11a/ | 6b+/ | VII+/ |
| E4 6a | 5.11c/ | 6c+/ | VIII−/ |
| E5 6a | 5.12a | 7a+ | VIII+ |
| E5 6b | 5.12b | 7b | VIII+/ |
| E6 6b | 5.12c/ | 7b+/ | IX−/ |
| E6 6c | 5.13a | 7c+ | IX+ |
| E7 6c | 5.13b | 8a | X− |
| E7 7a | 5.13c | 8a+ | X |
| E8 7a | 5.13d/ | 8b/ | X+/ |
| E9 7b | 5.14b/ | 8c/ | XI−/ |
| E10 7b | 5.14d | 9a | XI |
| E11 7b | 5.15a | 9a+ | XI/ |
Approximate. Conversions by OpenBeta sandbag; British from RockFax/theCrag tables.
About these grades
British trad grades pair an adjectival grade for overall seriousness (E1 to E11) with a technical grade for the hardest move (5a to 7b).
The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) is used in North America. Roped climbs run from 5.0 to 5.15d, with letters a to d from 5.10 up.