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Tenaya Oasi review: fit, sizing and what climbers say

Tenaya's downturned Velcro shoe has a double midsole, 3.5 mm Vibram XS Grip rubber and the patented Draxtor strap closure. It was built for overhanging sport routes and bouldering, yet reviewers find it precise and comfortable enough for vertical edges and slabs too. It suits narrow to medium feet and climbers moving up from beginner shoes.

  • Intermediate
  • Bouldering
  • Sport
  • Steep
  • Gym
  • Outdoor

Size down about one size from your street shoe

For a snug all-round fit, a street UK 9 (EU 43) is a UK 8 (EU 42) in the Oasi. Go half a size smaller for hard bouldering, or bigger for long days. It's a starting point: feet differ, so try them on if you can.

Your size in the Oasi

Your street shoe size

UK9

Aggressive

Tight, hard bouldering

UK7½EU 41⅓

Recommended

Snug all-rounder

UK8EU 42

Relaxed

Long sessions

UK8½EU 42⅔

Comfort

Beginners, multi-pitch

UK9EU 43.2
Your size in all 292 shoes

How the Oasi fits

NarrowMedium volume
Heel
Narrow, fairly soft heel that suits small heels. It isn't aggressively shaped, and it can shift on hard hooks unless the closure is cinched tight.
Toe box
Downturned, slightly asymmetric toe with a firm edge and no rand bulge, so it stands well on tiny holds. There's little rubber on top for toe hooks.
Suits
Narrow to medium feet and narrow heels. An Oasi LV suits lower-volume feet.

What climbers say

From independent reviews and buyers' feedback; each point is backed by at least two sources.

Strengths

  • Remarkably precise on small edges for a downturned shoe
  • Comfortable for a high-performance shoe, with a forgiving toe box
  • The softer midsole grips slopers, smears and plastic volumes well
  • The Draxtor closure adjusts finely and holds well

Watch out for

  • Microfibre with cotton lining barely stretches, so the wrong size stays wrong
  • Little rubber on top of the forefoot for toe hooks
  • Some feet get a gap under the arch and a slightly baggy heel, which costs precision on small heel hooks
Stretch and break-in: Expect very little stretch: TrainingBeta says about a quarter size, and Rock+Run notes microfibre's resistance to stretching. Rock+Run suggests about one size down from street shoes. Tenaya recommends the largest size that still keeps your toes curled, or half a size smaller for a tighter fit. GearJunkie's young tester needed five or six sessions before the LV stopped hurting.

Tenaya Oasi size chart

Your street size, then the size to get for each fit. From Tenaya's size chart and how this model runs.

Tenaya Oasi size chart
StreetAggressiveRecommendedRelaxedComfort
UK 4EU 37UK 2½EU 34.9UK 3EU 35.6UK 3½EU 36.2UK 3½EU 36.2
UK 4½EU 37½UK 3EU 35.6UK 3½EU 36.2UK 3½EU 36.2UK 4½EU 37½
UK 5EU 38UK 3½EU 36.2UK 3½EU 36.2UK 4½EU 37½UK 5EU 38.1
UK 5½EU 38½UK 3½EU 36.2UK 4½EU 37½UK 5EU 38.1UK 5½EU 38.8
UK 6EU 39½UK 4½EU 37½UK 5EU 38.1UK 5½EU 38.8UK 6EU 39.4
UK 6½EU 40UK 5EU 38.1UK 5½EU 38.8UK 6EU 39.4UK 6½EU 40
UK 7EU 40½UK 5½EU 38.8UK 6EU 39.4UK 6½EU 40UK 7EU 40½
UK 7½EU 41½UK 6EU 39.4UK 6½EU 40UK 7EU 40½UK 7½EU 41⅓
UK 8EU 42UK 6½EU 40UK 7EU 40½UK 7½EU 41⅓UK 8EU 42
UK 8½EU 42½UK 7EU 40½UK 7½EU 41⅓UK 8EU 42UK 8½EU 42⅔
UK 9EU 43UK 7½EU 41⅓UK 8EU 42UK 8½EU 42⅔UK 9EU 43.2
UK 9½EU 44UK 8EU 42UK 8½EU 42⅔UK 9EU 43.2UK 9½EU 43.9
UK 10EU 44½UK 8½EU 42⅔UK 9EU 43.2UK 9½EU 43.9UK 10EU 44½
UK 10½EU 45UK 9EU 43.2UK 9½EU 43.9UK 10EU 44½UK 10½EU 45.2
UK 11EU 45½UK 9½EU 43.9UK 10EU 44½UK 10½EU 45.2UK 11EU 45.8

Specs

Rubber
Vibram XS Grip, 3.5 mm
Closure
velcro
Made for
sport, bouldering
Upper
Microfibre; two-layer bidirectional Lycra tongue
Lining
TXT treated cotton
Weight
340 g (as listed by Tenaya; size and per-shoe/pair not stated (GearJunkie measured 14 oz per pair for an EU 37 Oasi LV))
Price
€165 (list price, 2026-10-08)
Released
2014
Tenaya product page

Compare with

Sources

  1. Tenaya: Oasi (specs, EUR price)
  2. TrainingBeta: Shoe review – Tenaya Oasi
  3. Rock+Run: Tenaya Masai and Oasi review
  4. GearJunkie: Tenaya Oasi LV review (Sept 2024)

Checked 8 October 2026 (Oasi (current Tenaya 'Aerial Plus' line; design dates from 2014)). Gear Loop isn't affiliated with the maker and earns nothing from these links.

More Tenaya shoes

Tenaya sizing →

Estimates. Fit depends on foot shape and preference.